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Island Hopping

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Photo courtesy of: Musha Cay

Photo courtesy of: Musha Cay

treats! spent the month of June island hopping from one exclusive atoll to the next on a lavish bucket list romp. Come join us. Land ho!

words by// Rob Hill


Islands. Ever since we were little kids exotic islands have held sway over our imaginations as far-flung romantic outposts forever pulling us toward our fantasies. There are approximately 45,000 tropical islands on Earth. They bob in the ocean from Hawaii to the Maldives to French Polynesia and beyond. They all, in one way or another, evoke a dreamy escape fantasy, a place to hide from the world, unfettered by its hustle-and-bustle—to simply soak in nature’s perfect bounty. Fabled stories of lost gold and treasure, lover’s marooned to frolic naked, and perfect creamy beaches ringed by azure lagoons are woven into our daydreams. The rich and famous have been running away to islands for a half a century now, breezily cavorting beyond the prying eyes of the gossip hungry masses.

Photo courtesy of: The Brando/Tim Mckenna

Photo courtesy of: The Brando/Tim Mckenna

James Bond author, Ian Fleming, wrote his spy novels in Jamaica, acquiring 15-acres where he built a bungalow named GoldenEye; he lived there from 1946 to 1964. Ernest Hemingway exiled himself to Cuba in 1940, holed up writing and drinking in a bungalow ten miles east of Havana called Finca Vigía. There he wrote two of his most celebrated novels: For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea. Actor Errol Flynn, however, may have been the first modern celebrity to actually buy an island. In the 1950s, the swashbuckling thespian bought Navy Island, a 64-acre atoll off the coast of Jamaica, where he hosted a smattering of legendary wild soirées before, ultimately, drinking himself to death in 1959. However, our first stop was another Hollywood legend’s island: Marlon Brando’s Tetiaroa, in French Polynesia Tahiti.

After flying to the main island of Tahiti, Tetiaroa is about 35 miles north. The bottomless sapphire ocean that deposits you onto the coral-ringed isle, however, makes it seem like you are sailing to the ends of the Earth—and time. It’s tempting to wonder if the infamous explorer Captain James Cook felt the same way when he approached it in 1769 to gather coconuts, flora and fauna, breadfruit and bananas. Needless to say, he and his men fell in love with the place, and its people, staying for months and returning often. For Brando, likewise, it was love at first sight.

The first time he saw the island was when he was filming Mutiny on the Bounty in the 1962. And by 1967, he owned it. The sheer wattage of its natural beauty and smiling people makes it easy to see why he was so enthralled—and how it “could bring good to the entire world.” He dreamed of building the world’s first post carbon resort: luxurious, innovative and sustainable.

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Today, the dream has been realized with the lush Brando Resort. It sits idly in the middle of a playground full of natural wonders that include over 160 species of fish, eagle rays, dolphins, sea turtles and whales framed by dense tropical vegetation where rainbow-attired parrots and thousands of other bird species flit and squawk in a magnificent opera that, once you get used to it, lull you to sleep.

At the Brando, the mission is simple: “To provide one of the most luxurious, authentic and enriching travel experiences available anywhere in the world in an environmentally sensitive, sustainable and culturally rich manner.”

Following in the footsteps of its legendary owner, the resort uses local materials in its construction and renewable energies such as solar energy and coconut oil. They’ve even implemented a deep seawater air-conditioning system to cool its thatched-roof villas. However, the ecofriendly resort doesn’t come cheap. Its rate from July to September for a one-bedroom villa is close to $2,500 per night, per person. After those beginning months, the price jumps up to $4,142 per person. But, like us, maybe Marlon can convince you it’s worth it: “My mind is always soothed when I imagine myself sitting on my South Sea island at night.”

Photo Courtesy of Musha Cay

Photo Courtesy of Musha Cay

Next stop: Musha Cay. Hidden in a God-like sleight of hand trick among the Exumas Islands, Musha Cay’s 11-islands span 700-acres of exotic, secluded jungles—yet with any and all the amenities one could desire, including a private airstrip. Officially called Musha Cay and The Islands of Copperfield Bay (owned by magician David Copperfield), the atolls are dotted with once-in-a-life-time experiences. If you want to watch the Blue Lagoon or Castaway under the starry skies, no problem. There is an outdoor movie theatre, Dave’s Drive-In, on Coconut Beach (the seats are lounges and the drinks are colorful). Want to have a private lover’s picnic? Well, there are over 40 private beaches accessed by catamaran. Interested in sipping some rum and playing billiards? Yes, Mr. Copperfield has that too—and the table you’ll play on used to belong to Houdini himself. There’s also the magic of M.U.S.H.A FORCE, the ultimate spy island game where you duel with rival

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agents—with secret weapons, laser beams and helicopters—solving codes. Your inner James Bond will be satisfied for life after an afternoon of this. But our favorite excursion was the Secret Village. At the epicenter of an enchanted forest, accessed by a hidden staircase guarded by a snarling monkey statue, a cavernous tunnel leads you to an imaginary—yet real—world. To be sure, there are no Wizard of Oz monkeys here though; in the secret village the monkeys are like dogs, climbing up on you, kissing you and, yes, even drawing portraits of you!

After spending the day getting drawn by monkeys, what’s next you ask? Well, there aren’t enough days to do it all: There’s sailboating, wave running, windsurfing, watertrampolining, snorkeling, diving, fishing and, well, simply swimming the day away in your very own private lagoon. But the Van Gogh monkeys alone are bucket list material.

Photo Courtesy of Necker island/ Jack Brockway

Photo Courtesy of Necker island/ Jack Brockway

Never one to be out done, however, Richard Branson’s Necker Island, in the British Virgin Islands, is a sight to behold. Spanning 74-acres, the island is named after a Dutch 17th-century explorer, and was virtually uninhabited until the late-20th century when Branson became enamored of it. Lured by castaway tales of pristine wilderness, Branson bought Necker in 1978 for a paltry $180,000 from the former owner, Lord Cobham. And ever since, there’s been no place in the world with the languid pace of Necker. Unlike some islands, there’s no urgency to do this or that, although it’s all available; instead, there’s a premium on privacy and relaxation. And relaxation doesn’t come any better than staying in the Balinese-inspired Main House.

With 360 degree ocean views, the 10-bedroom house has indoor and outdoor dining areas, a games area and two massive jacuzzis dangling on top of majestic terraces. Every room is drenched in tropical sunlight, white-linens, Balinese statues, bamboo walls, wood floors and views of water, vegetation—or both. If you can pull yourself out of the house, just steps away are tranquil swimming pools and white-sand beaches that are ground zero for snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, sailing and water skiing. And you’d better bring your appetite: Chef Lee Cowie and his kitchen staff won’t hear anything of “dieting.” The Coconut Shrimp on Banana Caper Relish, and the Sambuca Souffle with White Chocolate Ice Cream will send you into the night with dreams of a 21st-century Robinson Crusoe life.

Photo Courtesy of St. Barth Tourisme/Lauren

Photo Courtesy of St. Barth Tourisme/Lauren

Island bucket lists must include the French West Indies star, St Barts. None other than Christopher Columbus discovered the island, glimpsing the bejeweled atoll from his captain’s seat in 1493. He promptly named it after his brother, Bartolomeo. For the next few centuries wars and government gifts shifted the island’s ownership between the French, English, Swedes, and then the French again. For the past half-century, though, St. Barts has been the seminal playground for celebrities, wealthy Americans, successful hipsters, tanned yachtsmen, young professional Parisians and a smattering of highly paid paparazzi hiding out in the trees and bushes that ring the harbor. The buzz on the island was that Vogue was doing a photo shoot with Gisele, and the spindly cobblestone streets of Gustavia, a quaint village encircling a small picturesque harbor, were thronged with snappers. But this is all par for the course here: Miranda Kerr was shooting recently, as–well as Alessandra Ambrosio, Gwen Stefani and Beyonce. The white-and-pastel villas that inhabit the gentle hills above the harbor are full of the rich and famous, especially over Christmas and New Years. Although not known as a “party” island, St. Barts businesses and bars stay open relatively late. A nice place to take in all the glitterati while munching on a Szechwan pepper salad or Mahi-Mahi Moqueca, is Do Brazil café, on Shell Beach. Former French tennis star, and winner of the French Open, Yannick Noah, is the owner. Other hot spots include Nikki Beach, “The Sexiest Place on Earth,” the groovy Bar’To in Guanahani, and the pitched roof party central cottage, Le Ti St. Barthe at Pointe Milou. However, treats!’ favorite hang is the jazz bar Baz, on the harbor in Gustavia; their cocktails go down as smoothly as their mellow vibe and music. In fact, there’s a decent chance your bucket list could be topped off sipping a rum and coke with Jimmy Buffett and watching the sun set over the yacht-filled harbor.

Photo Courtesy of Mustique

Photo Courtesy of Mustique

Our final stop is Mustique. Tucked between St. Vincent and the Grenadines islands lies this beauty that was bought on the spot in 1958 by Colin Tennant, 3rd Baron Glenconner, for $67,000. Since then, Mustique has become the island zip code for the rich, notorious and lionized. In 1960, Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, settled on a huge plot of land named Les Jolies Eaux. And a steady stream of luminaries have been coming since: Mick Jagger, David Bowie, magazine magnate Felix Dennis, the Duke of Cambridge, the artist Stefan Szczesny and Sir Paul McCartney.

At 1,400-acres, Mustique has ten sugared beaches backed by languid coconut trees that gaze out over placid turquoise waters. There aren’t many hotels on the island: it’s the guest houses that reign supreme here. The threestory, tree-house-like villa, Firefly Guest House, nested on the highest mountain of the island, has a Balinese infinity pool with a waterfall. The 3 bedroom Aurora House boasts lookout gazebos, dining terraces with beach views, two plunge pools and a very efficient and friendly butler named Dwayne. Although Mustique echoes solitude and privacy, if you want to socialize there’s always Basil’s Bar.

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Opened in 1976, Basil’s is party central on the island. Squatting right on the beach, the bar has hosted birthday parties and New Year’s Eve bashes for supermodels, rock stars, tycoons and royalty who, after many strong Rum Punches or sumptuous Italian wines, often find themselves skinny dipping at 2am or being treated to an impromptu set by Oasis or the Rolling Stones. The Basil’s Blues Festival is not to be missed, either. The festival begins early on Sunday and goes till sunset, with dinner and cocktails being served. But whether you are there for the festival or just having a Tuesday night-cap, you’ll always be greeted with a warm smile by Basil Charles, the bar’s owner, and the man dubbed “The King of Mustique.”

His charming tales of the rich and famous are island lore. (On one Christmas he and Mick Jagger dressed up as Santa Claus and an elf and gave presents to the poor children of the island.) The former fisherman’s son has seen it all: marathon parties, lost days—and lost stars. After a few hours chit-chatting and rum-sipping, Basil likes to say of his memoirs of tending bar there: “They will shock the high society of Mustique as it will tell the truth about celebrities at play.”

An island for your thoughts, indeed

The post Island Hopping appeared first on Treats! Magazine.


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